Coral For Sale

Corals are living marine animals made up of individual polyps. Despite their plant-like appearance, they're closely related to anemones and jellyfish — not to plants or rocks.

Key facts about corals:

• Built from polyps — single units that may live alone or form large colonies
• Many house symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae) that provide energy through photosynthesis
• Hard corals build calcium skeletons — the foundation of natural reef structures
• Soft corals lack hard skeletons — moving with water flow instead
• In reef aquariums, corals add color, texture, movement, and natural reef structure

Bottom line: Corals are animals — and treating them as animals (not decorations) is the first step toward keeping them successfully.

Saltwater aquarium corals fall into several broad categories, each with distinct care needs, growth patterns, and visual appeal.

The main types of saltwater corals:

• SPS corals — Small Polyp Stony, branching and demanding
• LPS corals — Large Polyp Stony, fleshy and dramatic
• Soft corals — no hard skeleton, often hardy and flowing
• Zoanthids (zoas) — colorful colonial polyps in mats
• Mushroom corals — rounded, soft-bodied, often beginner-friendly
• Gorgonians — branching corals with vertical structure
• Coral frags — small fragments of larger colonies

Each category has different lighting needs, flow preferences, and growth habits, which is why a well-planned reef typically mixes several types based on tank conditions.

Bottom line: Understanding the major categories is the foundation of every successful reef stocking plan.

SPS stands for Small Polyp Stony coral. These corals have small polyps and hard, calcium-based skeletons that form branching, plating, or encrusting structures.

What defines SPS corals:

• Small polyps on hard calcium carbonate skeletons
• Build reef structure over time as they grow
• Common genera include Acropora, Montipora, Birdsnest, Stylophora, and Pocillopora

SPS corals typically require:

• Strong reef lighting — often high-output LED or T5
• Strong, turbulent water flow
• Very stable water chemistry — calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium especially
• Low nutrient levels for best color and growth

Bottom line: SPS corals reward experienced reef keepers with vivid colors and impressive growth — but only in mature, stable systems.

LPS stands for Large Polyp Stony coral. These corals have hard calcium skeletons like SPS, but with much larger, fleshier polyps that often extend dramatically into the water column.

Popular LPS corals include:

• Torch corals — flowing, tentacle-rich polyps
• Hammer corals — distinctive hammer-shaped tips
• Frogspawn corals — clusters of branching polyps
• Acan corals — colorful fleshy polyps with strong color variation
• Brain corals, Chalice corals, Duncan corals, Favia corals

LPS care notes:

• Moderate lighting and moderate flow work for most species
• Many have sweeper tentacles — give them space from neighbors
• More forgiving than SPS for newer reef keepers

Bottom line: LPS corals are a great middle ground — dramatic visual appeal with care requirements that most reef tanks can meet.

Soft corals are corals that don't build large hard calcium skeletons like SPS and LPS. Instead, they have flexible bodies that sway naturally with water flow, adding movement and texture to a reef aquarium.

Popular soft corals include:

• Leather corals — hardy, distinctive forms
• Xenia — known for pulsing polyp movement
• Kenya Tree corals — fast-growing and adaptable
• Colt corals — soft, flowing branches
• Green star polyps — encrusting mats with bright green polyps

Why soft corals appeal to many reef keepers:

• Hardy and forgiving — good for newer aquarists
• Adaptable to a range of lighting and flow conditions
• Don't require stable calcium and alkalinity the way stony corals do
• Add natural motion that stony corals don't provide

Bottom line: Soft corals are often the smartest starting point for new reef tanks — and they remain a beautiful part of advanced reefs too.

Coral frags are small fragments of larger coral colonies, typically mounted on a small disc or plug. They're a cornerstone of the modern reef aquarium hobby.

Why frags are popular:

• Lower starting price than full-sized colonies
• Grow over time into impressive display pieces
• Easier to place — small footprint while you find the right spot
• Wider variety at any given price point
• More sustainable when aquacultured rather than wild-collected

Common frag types include:

• SPS frags — Acropora, Montipora, Birdsnest, and similar
• LPS frags — Torch, Hammer, Acan, Duncan, and others
• Soft coral frags — leathers, Xenia, Kenya Tree
• Zoanthid and mushroom frags — colorful and easy to mount
• Aquacultured frags — captive-grown and reef-tank ready

Bottom line: Frags are how most modern reef tanks get built — start small, watch them grow, and propagate over time.

Beginner corals are usually hardy, adaptable, and less demanding in terms of lighting, flow, and water chemistry — perfect for new reef keepers still dialing in their systems.

Popular beginner-friendly corals:

• Mushroom corals — tolerate lower flow and a range of lighting
• Zoanthids — colorful, hardy, and easy to place
• Leather corals — adaptable and forgiving
• Green star polyps (GSP) — encrusting and fast-spreading
• Xenia — pulsing motion and rapid growth
• Kenya Tree corals — soft, flexible, and undemanding
• Some easier LPS — Duncan corals and certain hammers

Even with hardy corals, you still need stable salinity, temperature, lighting, water flow, and water quality — there's no such thing as a coral that thrives in an unstable tank.

Bottom line: Start with hardy soft corals, mushrooms, and zoas. Build experience, then move on to LPS and eventually SPS as your system matures.

Yes. Most reef corals need appropriate aquarium lighting to survive, and many require strong reef lighting to truly thrive. Standard fish-tank lighting isn't enough.

General lighting requirements by coral type:

• SPS corals — strong, high-PAR reef lighting (LED or T5)
• LPS corals — moderate to moderately strong reef lighting
• Soft corals — moderate lighting; many tolerate lower light
• Zoanthids — moderate lighting; some prefer brighter spots
• Mushroom corals — lower to moderate lighting
• Clams (related care concern) — typically strong lighting

Corals use light through symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae) that convert light into energy via photosynthesis. Too little light means slow death; too much light can bleach corals.

Bottom line: Match your lighting to the corals you want to keep — and make sure each coral is placed in a spot that matches its individual light preferences.

Yes. Water flow is essential. It brings food and oxygen to corals, removes waste, prevents detritus accumulation, and keeps tissue healthy.

Flow preferences by coral type:

• SPS corals — prefer strong, turbulent, randomized flow
• LPS corals — moderate flow; too much can damage fleshy polyps
• Soft corals — moderate flow; many enjoy gentle pulsing currents
• Zoanthids and mushrooms — generally prefer lower to moderate flow
• Gorgonians — many need stronger flow for filter feeding

Signs of insufficient flow include closed polyps, detritus buildup on coral surfaces, and pale or sickly coloration. Signs of too much flow include torn tissue, retracted polyps, and corals that won't open.

Bottom line: Random, varied flow patterns mimic natural reefs better than constant directional currents. Adjust placement until each coral opens fully and looks happy.

Yes — most reef aquariums contain a mix of SPS, LPS, soft corals, zoanthids, mushrooms, and other types. But placement and spacing are critical, because corals compete with each other.

Common coral-on-coral conflicts:

• Sweeper tentacles — many LPS extend long tentacles at night to sting neighbors
• Chemical warfare — soft corals release compounds (allelopathy) that can suppress nearby corals
• Shading — fast-growing corals can shade out slower-growing ones below
• Overgrowth — encrusting corals can creep over and smother neighbors
• Direct stinging — touching colonies often damage each other

Smart mixing strategies:

• Leave space for each coral's adult size and reach
• Use carbon to help control chemical compounds
• Plan vertical arrangement — taller corals shouldn't shade lower ones
• Separate aggressive species from peaceful ones

Bottom line: Mixing coral types is normal and rewarding — but always plan placement around their long-term growth, not their current size.

It depends on which corals — and on your aquarium. Some corals are genuinely beginner-friendly, while others demand experienced reef-keeping skills.

What determines coral-keeping difficulty:

• Matching corals to your tank's lighting, flow, and stability
• Stable salinity, temperature, alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium
• Appropriate nutrient levels — not too high, not stripped to zero
• Tank maturity — established tanks support more demanding corals
• Your experience level with reef husbandry

General difficulty progression:

• Easier: mushrooms, zoanthids, green star polyps, leathers, Xenia
• Intermediate: most LPS — Duncans, hammers, frogspawn, torches
• Advanced: SPS corals, demanding LPS, certain non-photosynthetic species

Bottom line: Coral keeping is as hard as the corals you choose. Match your livestock to your tank and your skill level, and most corals are achievable.

Corals get nutrition from two main sources: light (through symbiotic algae) and food they capture from the water. Most photosynthetic corals benefit from both.

Common coral food sources:

• Light energy — via zooxanthellae for photosynthetic corals
• Plankton — phytoplankton and zooplankton in the water column
• Small meaty foods — mysis, brine, and coral-specific blends for LPS
• Dissolved organic nutrients in the tank
• Coral-specific foods — powdered or liquid formulations
• Targeted feeding for non-photosynthetic species (some gorgonians, sun corals)

Feeding guidelines vary by coral type:

• LPS often respond well to direct feeding with meaty foods
• SPS rely heavily on light and dissolved nutrients
• Soft corals mostly handle their own needs through photosynthesis
• Non-photosynthetic corals require frequent, targeted feeding

Bottom line: Most photosynthetic corals will live on light alone, but supplemental feeding often improves growth, color, and long-term health.

Yes — especially stony corals. SPS and LPS corals build their hard skeletons from calcium and carbonate, and they consume both from the water column as they grow.

Key reef chemistry parameters for stony corals:

• Calcium — typically 400–450 ppm
• Alkalinity — typically 8–11 dKH
• Magnesium — typically 1,250–1,350 ppm (supports calcium and alkalinity balance)
• Stable pH — generally 8.1–8.4

Stability matters more than perfect numbers — wild swings in alkalinity stress and damage corals more than parameters that sit slightly off the ideal range.

Ways to maintain these parameters:

• Regular water changes with quality reef salt
• Two-part dosing (calcium and alkalinity supplements)
• Calcium reactors for larger SPS-dominant systems
• Kalkwasser drip top-off in some systems

Bottom line: Soft corals and zoas are forgiving on chemistry; the moment you keep stony corals, calcium and alkalinity stability becomes a daily priority.

WYSIWYG stands for "What You See Is What You Get." A WYSIWYG coral listing shows a photo of the actual specific coral specimen or frag being sold — not a stock photo or representative image.

Why WYSIWYG matters to reef keepers:

• You see exactly what you're buying — color, size, pattern, mounting
• No surprises on arrival — the photo matches the specimen
• Important for high-end corals where appearance varies significantly between specimens
• Useful for collectors looking for specific morphs or named pieces

Non-WYSIWYG listings often use a representative photo because the specific specimen will vary — and that's fine for hardy, consistent species, but less ideal for prized pieces.

Bottom line: If a coral's individual coloration or pattern is what makes it special, WYSIWYG is the way to buy it.

Aquacultured corals are often an excellent choice because they're grown or propagated in controlled systems and are already adapted to captive reef conditions.

Advantages of aquacultured corals:

• Pre-adapted to aquarium lighting — LED or T5 spectrums rather than full natural sun
• Used to captive water flow from powerheads and wavemakers
• Familiar with reef tank parameters — alkalinity, calcium, magnesium ranges
• Lower acclimation stress than wild-collected specimens
• More sustainable — reduces collection pressure on wild reefs
• Predictable growth — characteristics often carry through from parent colonies

Choosing aquacultured corals also supports the continued growth of captive coral propagation, which is one of the most important developments in the reef hobby.

Bottom line: Whenever an aquacultured option is available for the coral you want, it's almost always the better choice.

Saltwaterfish.com inventory updates in real time, and new marine life may be added throughout the day as availability changes.

Check this category often for:

• New corals and coral frags across all major types
• WYSIWYG corals — specific specimens with their actual photos
• Aquacultured corals — captive-grown and reef-ready
• Beginner corals — hardy mushrooms, zoas, leathers, and easier LPS
• SPS corals — Acropora, Montipora, Birdsnest, and more
• LPS corals — Torch, Hammer, Frogspawn, Acan, Duncan, and others
• Soft corals, zoanthids, mushrooms, and rare reef pieces

Bottom line: Bookmark the category and check back often — coral inventory shifts continuously as new frags and colonies arrive.